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Luciano Benetton is on a not-so-secret mission to
India. In the next year, the clothing tycoon wants to open six Benetton mega-stores
in India?s top metros and he?s putting together the plans for the big push forward.
?India is very important in our global scheme,? he says.
What?s a Benetton mega-store? These sprawling retail
spaces usually have a mix of clothing and accessories ? in short, the entire range
of Benetton products. ?They are the stores of the future where the whole family
can shop,? says Luciano, chairman of the world- famous retail chain.
Benetton has already visited India five or six times
in a bid to build his retail empire in the country. While menswear and childrenswear
is selling briskly, the women?s lines are moving more slowly. ?Indian clients
like our international mix. As for womenswear, we?re still in the process of evolving,?
he says.
Life for the Venetian tycoon has been a rags-to-Benetton
story. As a young boy, he hawked newspapers to help his family make ends meet.
Now he is the proud owner of a two-billion Euro global clothing chain. Sixty-nine-year-old
Benetton says life for him has been a dream so far. A dream which has taken him
across the globe from Paris to Dubai and from Milan to India.
Benetton has always been a strong adherent of globalism.
The company has a one-size-fits-all strategy for its globe-straddling selling
efforts. It?s always used the same advertising campaigns in different parts of
the globe. And it sells the same clothes ? whether it?s in India, Italy or Ireland.
?Fashion is global,? he says uncompromisingly. ?So what you get here is the same
as what you?d see abroad. However, there is definitely the temperature factor
influencing the use of certain fabrics.? he avers. Inevitably, more cotton and
lycra apparel is sold here.
Voluble though he is while talking about fashion,
the silver-haired style icon dodges questions about his past. Any attempts to
dig into his earlier life is stonewalled with noncommittal replies: ?What I have
been through as a child was a way of understanding life at a young age. Something
which I feel every young person should go through.?
The Benetton success story began in the 1950s with
a teenage Luciano delivering his teenage sister Giuliana?s handknit sweaters on
his bicycle. Once, he was flooded with compliments about a lemon-yellow sweater
she?d made for him. So, he sold his accordion and bought her a knitting machine.
Soon he quit his job in a clothing shop in the Italian village of Ponzano to start
a business with her. They were later joined by their two younger brothers, Gilberto
and Carlo.
The siblings opened their first factory in 1965. This
was, in a sense, the defining moment of his life. Luciano reminisces: ?When I
was growing up, there was an enthusiasm to be a somebody. Society was not well-to-do
as this was the time when World War II had just ended.?
In 1969, they opened their first store in Belluno
and the year after, they moved to Paris. Today Luciano is the chairman and creative
mind of the Benetton Group and Giuliana controls the design staff and the collections.
Gilberto is in charge of the company accounts and Carlo of production. Their stores
are opening all the time and there are now around 5,000 in 120 countries.
The whole family is in the business together and so
far, there haven?t been any conflicts. ?We have a strong equilibrium as we started
working in this direction when we were very young,? says Luciano.
Post-war, the Benettons were one of the new clans
who cracked the circle of elite Italian business families long dominated by the
Agnellis, who owned Fiat. Over the years, they established themselves as members
of that elite and then as leaders, proving that family firms can break out of
their home markets by becoming one of Italy?s most recognised global brands. The
Benettons dared to change with the times, diversifying into profitable roadside
restaurants and other ventures while other clans stood still. ?Diversification
and internationalisation have always been our philosophy,? says Luciano.
In the beginning, the Benetton business was confined
to sweaters in classic colours. The seas of gray T-shirts and V-neck sweaters
in brightly-lit Benetton stores have long been staples of the urban wardrobe.
Luciano decided to change things: he attracted the attention of the younger generation
by creating sweaters in bright, fun shades. And Benetton made a transition into
a friendly, Latin, colourful brand. ?One colour can make all the difference. Right
now, Europe?s in love with saffron which is a very Indian colour,? says Luciano.
He came up with the slogan, ?United Colors of Benetton?
after an United Nations official visiting Toscani?s (then a Benetton photographer)
studio during a shoot. He saw a group of models and exclaimed, ?This is fantastic,
it?s the United Colors in here!?
The Benetton head further set the provocative tone
for which the brand would become famous by posing in the buff for a 1993 worldwide
campaign poster that said: ?I want my clothes back?. At one time, even more visible
than Benetton?s trademark knitwear, were its highly provocative advertising campaigns
focusing on issues like war, racism, AIDs and child labour.
In response to the criticism that came Benetton?s
way, Luciano says: ?Communication requires creativity. It always needs a new way
of expressing itself. If you want applause from everyone, then you have to create
something very basic or banal.?
Certainly, Luciano has stirred controversy at times.
He was once attacked by Argentine Nobel Prize winner Adolfo Perez Esquivel over
the eviction of Mapuche Indians from land owned by the Benettons in Argentina.
Esquivel accused him of behaving ?with the same mentality as the conquistadors?
and added, ?You don?t need weapons to achieve your objectives. But you kill in
the same way, using money.?
In his reply, in an open letter published in the Italian
newspaper La Repubblica, Benetton said: ?We have simply followed the economic
rules we believe in.?
Benetton has tried his hand at Italian politics, even
serving as a Senator, a period which was fraught with difficulties, about which
he said: ?When a foreign friend protested that he didn?t understand Italian politics
I told him ? neither do we!?
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