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Haute stones for Hurley and you

Diamonds, by popular consent, are a girl’s best friend. And how does it feel when one gets to work day in and day out with one’s best friend? “Even after 10 long years in the business, it’s still extremely interesting and creatively rewarding,” smiles jewellery designer Shibani Aggarwal of Maharani Jewellers, Mumbai.

Armed with a degree in art, Shibani started out as a journalist with an art magazine. But it was marriage that charted her career path. “My mom-in-law, Neena Aggarwal, had been looking after the business all by herself. I just happened to design a bracelet and I received very nice compliments for it. The natural consequence then was joining the business,” recalls Shibani.

Cut to the present and Shibani’s client list boasts Hollywood hotties like Jennifer Lopez and Elizabeth Hurley (yes, you read it right) as well as Bollywood beauties like Shilpa Shetty. She also counts the West Asian royalty, notably the Prime Minister of Bahrain, among her loyal clientele.

At a recent fundraiser for Gujarat earthquake victims hosted by former US President Bill Clinton in New York, Maharani’s jewels fetched $2 million in one evening. Renowned jewellery designers and wholesalers in the US and Europe also buy Maharani creations.

Sometimes, Shibani picks up an interesting motif and fits in the stones accordingly. At other times, however, it’s the stone she picks up first before creating a design around it. “Mughal architecture fascinates me. I love making Indian traditional jewellery in a way that it looks modern,” she says.

Talk of diamonds and her eyes light up. “Diamonds are my forte. Of course I work with other coloured, precious and semi-precious stones. I like emeralds, too, since they can be teamed with almost every other colour. Combinations like emeralds and sapphires, rubies and grey south sea pearls or turquoises and emeralds work very well,” points out Shibani.

Sample this. A pair of jhumkas is given a whole new look with cut blue topaz in the centre and peripheral diamonds. Designed on the lines of traditional Indian jadau, the jewellery is lighter and more attractive. In another flower design for a pair of earrings with black-and-white or yellow-and-white diamonds, the stones are hinged so that each petal moves separately.

Most of her designs are set in white gold, while some are done in yellow gold. Unusual cuts and settings are what make the jewellery stand out.

Versatility is another important aspect of her creations. A necklace or a baajubandh can be modified into a choker. A necklace can also be worn around the wrist in a way Shibani wears her string of 108 pearls, which can double as a rosary.

“I believe even one’s wedding jewellery should be so wearable that one can mix and match it with a cocktail dress or wear it on any other special occasion. Today’s woman wants to wear that one piece of jewellery that can make her stand out in a crowd,” she stresses.

Maharani’s line is not just for women. Men can sport cufflinks as earrings and kurta buttons as brooches, too.

The in colours this season are yellow and shades of brown, reveals Shibani. Citrines, quartz, smoky topaz are hot favourites, along with plenty of turquoises as well.

For a person who strongly believes that jewellery is not meant for the locker, there can be no compromise on the quality front. “It’s an investment, the value of which will never go down,” she smiles.

Having recently given birth to her second child, Shibani is ready with her line for young girls, ranging from a few months to 15 years.

“Why deny little girls small trinkets and soft, smooth jewels to go with their pink frocks?” she asks, planning to unveil the collection just before Diwali.

Maharani Jewellers is all set for an exclusive exhibition of fine diamond jewellery at the Taj Khazana showroom in Taj Bengal on August 4 and 5. So, here’s your chance to see why Liz finds it lovely, or JLo says its just hot.

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