(From top): the interiors of an Earth Villa; a view of the Villas; the entrance to Vedic Village

Now I’m a creature who loves her comforts. Yes, I need a nice bed with fluffy pillows. I need soft towels. And I need my climate to be well-controlled (and thank God for air-conditioning). The winners of Survivor can take their accolades — me, I want my luxury. So, it was with great trepidation that I headed off to experience the ‘mud huts’ of the Vedic Village Spa Resort. My initial incredulity though disappeared fast when I was told that the mud huts in question were actually Earth Villas (whatever could those be?) and were located in the lush environs of the resort that sprawls on the outskirts of the city.

So off I went to the Village, my backpack in tow — in hindsight, a mistake since the management doesn’t want this to be a backpacker’s hub. However, Louis Vuitton is not mandatory. The Earth Villas are rural-style extravagances in mud that are located on the bank of a placid green lake, and are the latest additions to Vedic Village’s facilities. Think thatched roofs, carved wooden doors, fancy cornices and clay figurines. And was I happy to see that my bitsy shack came complete with polished wooden floors and a plethora of five-star comforts.

As I entered my villa, a sweet and fresh, almost sandal-like fragrance wafted through my being. Vedic Village director and CEO, Michael J Roberston revealed much to my surprise, that it was the mud that smelled so divine. So far, so good. Yet being the city slicker that I am, I couldn’t help casting furtive looks at the roof. Would it collapse on me while I slumbered through the night? My ill-concealed glances were intercepted by Robertson, who hastily assured me that the thatched roofs were supported by steel rods encased in Assam bamboo.

Seasonal flowers, typically of the soil, like hibiscus and frangipani were arranged prettily in the room, a refreshing change from the regulation orchids. The room itself was cosy and well-appointed. Next, being the quintessential woman, I checked out the bathroom. It was huge, almost bigger than the room itself I daresay, with a faux open-air shower. Even the soaps and lotions sitting on the counter, I was proudly informed, were made right there at the Village. My delight at discovering the bathroom of my dreams was slightly dampened when to my unending mortification, I walked into the spotless glass door.

I beat a hasty retreat and came outside only to trip over what I thought was the neatest touch to the room — a quirky looking mini chair. Pradip Mohanto, reportedly a temperamental local talent, made it to order using odds and ends like 16 different kinds of wood, ceramic tiles and whatever else he could lay his hands on. Mohanto’s creations are showcased at several other spots within the resort. My rustic retreat certainly passed the bill and it was as earthy as it could get without forfeiting all the bells and whistles.

But what lay outside my country cottage? After a while, I ventured out to explore the resort. It was a pleasant stroll along sprawling grounds, dotted with lakes, vegetable patches, coconut groves, paddy fields and little villas that I was told were the uber cool farmhouses of the city’s rich and famous. Giving life to my Salim Ali fantasies, I also spotted birds I thought had disappeared from the cityscape. I saw a black duck, a pankouri, a dazzling blue kingfisher, a woodpecker and other feathered friends I’d never seen before. It wasn’t long before I found out that the organic farm at the Village was changing the ecology of the area. Quite a few endangered species of birds and butterflies have found sanctuary here.

All that walking got me hungry for some pampering. So I tramped my way to the resort’s Sanjeeva spa. The spa is led by director of medicine, Dr C. M. Pradyumna. Four doctors and 20 therapists have worked tirelessly over the last three years to build up Sanjeeva’s reputation as a destination spa. I was turned over to Dr Malay Dutta, a holistic doctor, who gave me an on-the-spot blood-analysis. The results? I was sternly told that I needed to change my damaging dietary habits. My pleas of urban angst and time deprivation of course, fell on deaf ears.

I allowed myself to be booked for the Orange Body Mask. Now a session at Ananda, it wasn’t! But yes, it was definitely the most relaxing 75 minutes that I’d spent awake in a very long time.

With body and bones feeling suitably appeased, I stepped out into the still evening. A night bird fluttered above my head into the greens and the silence seemed deafening. Even the stars seemed to be leaning closer to the ground. I went to sit by the lotus-shaped swimming pool and gave in to the serenity around me. I couldn’t remember the last time I’d felt this soothed.

When I returned to the villa, I found a leaf placed on the bed. Someone had scrawled shubhoratri on it with sandal paste. Even as I sank into bed, trying to make out the strains of an insomniac cuckoo, I knew that I’d have a very good night indeed.

Fact file: Earth Villa tariffs — Rs 9,000 (local taxes extra). Inclusive of breakfast, a bottle of wine, steam, sauna and jacuzzi facilities, a foot soak for two. To book, call: 98308 20445 / 98300 25900.

Route map

• Love Kerala, but bored of the same old backwater routines? Try a ‘farmstay’ which offers you a chance to live on a farm in some of the most picturesque locations in Kerala. You can take part in organic farming activities, learn a thing or two about local culture and heritage or simply soak in the sun over a glass of coconut water. Timeless Traveller, a travel agency in Chennai offers a choice among farms spread across places like Idukki, Allapuzha, Kottayam, Ernakulam and Wayanad. Once you check in, expect to spend a day in the fields as your host guides you through the different farm activities. A day’s stay here for a couple costs around Rs 4,600 and the hotseller is the 2-night, 3-day package. For reservations, contact Naveen Aditya at (044) 4213 4321 / 094440 37044, or log onto www.timelesstraveller.com.

• Okay, so if mucking about a farm ain’t your cup of tea, how about putting foot to pedal and cycling around Kerala. Kalypso Adventures, a Kochi-based tour operator, offers a range of tours through places like Kochi, Munnar, Periyar, Kumarakom, Alleppey and Marari — all varying between 7 to 14 days. The all-terrain bikes, imported at a whopping Rs 40,000 each, are fitted with all the fancy frills you can think of. The night-stays are at top-notch hotels and resorts. A 14-day tour will set you back by about Rs 55,000. For bookings, call Kalypso Adventures at (0484) 2092280 / 094470 31032, or log onto www.kalypsoadventures.com.