Twenty-five-year-old jewellery designer Vasundhara Mantri started her career four years ago, after a short stint with New York’s Gemological Institute of America, with a quiet exhibition at her Alipore home. It all sold out within hours and the after-effects were far from quiet. Vasundhara has now stepped out of homely environs to reach Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week that starts in New Delhi on Wednesday. After an exhibition in London titled Call of the Peacock, a bridal fair in Dubai and an edition of Bridal Asia, Vasundhara is clearly on a roll. t2 caught up with her, days before Fashion Week…

On participating in WIFW…

Frankly, I never expected things to be so smooth. I applied for membership to Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) in February and left it at that, instead of really pursuing and pushing them. In July, out of the blue, I got my acceptance letter and I casually asked them if they had a spare stall for me in September’s spring-summer show. They did!

On her spring-summer line…

My new collection is a fusion line that blends Indian and Western sensibilities. Apart from my signature use of unique semiprecious stones, I have concentrated on chunky silver motifs. Soft texturing, carving and interesting shapes and sizes form other features of the line in which silver artwork is the mainstay. There is also a dash of brassy gold look that is much in demand internationally. Since it is a spring-summer line, mother of pearl cut in various shapes and sizes takes centrestage. There are also some corals, fossils and shells. The silhouettes are mostly neckpieces, malas, oversized buckles and very few earrings.

On copycats…

Initially, I was quite concerned, but when I saw their shoddy quality I didn’t really bother. They should at least try to copy me well! The Vasundhara lookalike pieces floating around the market resemble mine in framework but that’s where the similarity ends. Their sense of proportion and quality of stones is so not right. Their prices are also not too much lower than mine, so anyone who wants to own that look should rather come to me than buy a season-old fake!

On stars sporting her stuff…

Whenever I look at a woman’s photograph, my eyes first go to her earrings. So while I was casually flipping through a magazine, I noticed Priyanka Chopra wearing my earrings in Don’s Aaj ki raat. I went online, checked out the blow-up of the images and then contacted the Mumbai store. That is when they told me that Aki Narula had bought them! That was a real high. Recently, I also heard that Bipasha Basu wore my designs for a fashion magazine shoot. I was very excited again. But starry ambitions apart, my real dream is to take a course in diamonds. I want to learn more and more….

Which is your favourite stone? Tell t2@abpmail.com

Cutting edge

A briolette is a pear-shaped stone, usually with triangular facets all over. It is not a flat piece of stone but is a full, three-dimensional one, scintillating from all angles. Once particular to rare diamonds, today they are fashioned out of most gemstones that can take suitable cutting and faceting. In other words, the toughness of the stone determines the number of facets and hence decides whether a piece can be fashioned into a briolette or not.

Most stone briolettes come in small sizes and are suitable as earring drops. Some rare and expensive big ones are used as pendants. A very popular option today is the crystal briolette that adds that much coveted sophistication and glamour.

A briolette should be handled carefully as the drill holes are very tiny and the slightest tug can actually break the tip. The most common method of attaching the briolette to any piece is by using wires. This, however, should be done professionally as a briolette can be extremely difficult to handle.

Briolettes are popularly known as Goswaras in India and form a very intricate part of our culture. The Mughal dynasties have seen the most elaborate sarpainch, maangtikas and necklaces using the diamond briolette. Such beautiful pieces are stuff of fantasy now but we still see ample usage of briolette in earrings and bracelets. Legend has it that briolettes were first fashioned in the world’s most well know gem-cutting centre — India.

So naturally there is a lot of history associated with the term. In fact, the oldest briolette is said to go further back in history than the famous Kohinoor. This piece is known to have travelled from India to England and France. It apparently came back to India and finally ended up with a jeweller in New York. Briolettes have also been included in crowns of the Austrian dynasty and Russia, and have been a part of the crown jewels of Iran.

Briolettes were extremely popular around the 18th century. Then the new era brought in modern cuts and interest shifted. However, the Victorian era brought with it the resurrection of the briolette.

Today, briolettes are a symbol of style and fashion. They not only form a part of our precious jewellery box, but are part of our homes in the form of chandeliers.

They are even strung on precious garments! Today, they range from the very expensive diamond and crystal briolettes to the affordable glass and semiprecious ones.

Whatever be the element, briolettes have always added dignity and class to an ensemble and shall continue to do so.

For jewellery tips and trends try t2@abpmail.com