No matter how many times you have visited the Sunderbans and through how many routes — via Canning, Dhamakhali, Basanti, Hingalgunj, Nemnagar — you will never run short of places to explore in the largest riverine delta in the world. And the landscape is invariably captivating: billowing rivers like the Raimangal and the Matla flow alongside placid ones like the Ichhamati and the Goureswar. On the banks, alligators lie in the sun as deer and wild boar scamper in and out of forests of Sundari, Garan and Hental trees. If you are very lucky, you will even be granted an audience by the king — the Royal Bengal Tiger.

The way into the Sunderbans is through the waterways. It is no different for Samsernagar, one of the lesser-known tourist stops, at the confluence of the Ichhamati, Gowreswar and the Raimangal. The journey is pleasant. The wind in the sail, happily chirping birds and the brackish water will transport you to a different time and place. The boats moor off the shore at sunset. Fishermen hitch up their trousers to wade in. There’s plenty of fish. Bees buzz over the heads of the tourists on the boat.

The village, which is very close to Bangladesh, is on the way to Jhinekhali, Bagna Forest and Burirdabri. The memory of the boat rocking gently in the Dulduli river under the serene night sky will stay with you. The rivers are wider and deeper here than in other parts of the Sunderbans. The forest is also among the densest. Along its border, nearly quarter a kilometre has been fenced off. There is also a watchtower. From it, the trees look lovely as they sway in the breeze. The forest department is active here. The officials urge the tourists to maintain peace and disappoint those looking for venison.

There are two tubewells in Samsernagar island whose water is “inflammable”. When you pump the tubewells, near two ponds, and strike a match, the water catches fire. According to local residents, the water contains oil. But the residents still drink it. The tubewells are locally known as magic tubewells.

Trip tips

Take a local train to Hasnabad from Sealdah. Cross the Ichhamati and take a trekker to Dulduli ghat. After crossing the Dulduli, take another trekker to Samsernagar. There’s a rest house. Contact the panchayat office at Jogeshgunj