We had crossed Kulik several times en route to North Bengal and even stayed at the Raiganj tourist lodge but never checked out the bird sanctuary there.

The Kulik bird sanctuary, by the Kulik river, is home to around 70,000 open-billed storks (shamuk khol) in the summer-autumn months.

The milk-white open-billed storks land in Kulik in the summer and start scouting for the right place to build nests for the expecting moms.

Then they lay eggs and the newborns hatch around August-September; they learn to fly by November and by December, all the birds clear out of Kulik.

So we chose September-October for a trip to the Kulik Bird Sanctuary as this was the ideal time — you could catch some birds building their nests, some that have laid eggs and some newborns growing up. Kulik becomes a big colony of birds; there’s a lot of noise all around and the place really stinks. But the blue sky covered with white flying storks is such a beautiful sight.

We put up at the Raiganj tourist lodge which is right next to the sanctuary. When there’s no place left in the sanctuary to nest, the storks take up the Raiganj tourist lodge compound.

Some of the rooms in the lodge stink a lot, so many people dislike staying there. You also have insects and worms crawling into the rooms. But I never had a problem. I rather liked all this, as it gave me the feel of living in a jungle. Things at the tourist lodge have become a lot better now.

The lodge is right on the main road and there are trucks and all kinds of vehicles speeding away all the time. So, there’s a great deal of noise but the birds have adjusted to their surroundings.

travel tips of the week

Worried about how much to tip when you travel to cities and countries for the first time? Ask a local how much — every place has a range. Pay enough — not more, not less; and make sure to keep small change ready at hand, lest you feel like an idiot after having overtipped!

If you’re planning a holiday this Puja, make sure to book your tickets now. It’s wise to choose a lesser-explored destination if you like your vacation quiet and restful. So, give the hot spots a miss and maybe you should rule out a rainy spot too. We have all had our fill of showers this year!

(Next week: Feluda in Manas)