Why are you so far away from Indian Fashion Weeks?

(Laughs) Am I? I am not far away; I just don’t have the right product to show. I am also not quite clear about the objective of our Fashion Week. Is it a trade event? Is it PR? Are we catering to the domestic market or is it targeted to the international buyers? Everyone seems to be doing everything. I can’t function like that. I need to have a clear-cut direction.

I also find the production a big limitation. Since it is Fashion Week, it’s all the same white stage and 25 names on the backdrop looking so silly. Something about our Fashion Weeks doesn’t fit right.

The menswear market must be radically different today since the inception of your label in 1987…

Oh yes! There’s been a sea change. Let’s say if it was -10 then, it is +7 now. Many factors are responsible for this evolution — exposure, travel, availability and also economic reasons. Menswear is the fastest growing market. In fact, after women’s accessories (handbags, shoes, sunglasses etc), it is the second largest segment.

Men themselves have changed radically. Earlier, black and brown shoes were it. Today, it goes beyond red! Retail therapy is very relevant in a man’s life too. Shopping apart, even salons are being taken up by men like never before. Grooming products for him are hot. Men today want to be sexy. They want to be desirable.

You were one of the first designers to launch a fashion house and many Indian designers are going structured and corporate now. Do you think that’s the only way to survive long term?

Building a proper structure is the only way to go ahead. We have to get better and more organised and that’s the only way a design label can survive. These big boys from across the seas have a lot of muscle and are very capable of giving us a run for our money, especially in the menswear market. It is going to get very competitive and the situation can pose quite a bit of a challenge. Our ethnic market is still safe because the international labels are not doing saris and lehngas yet. The keyword is yet!

Less is more has always been your mantra. In this bling biz does it hold good even today?

Less is more was my catchline but I guess now it’s time to change. In any case, I have started doing a bit more these days. I am not such a minimalist as I used to be. I started changing once I started doing saris. It’s a compromise that I have had to make.

Finally, which collection are you sending to 85 Lansdowne?

We are sending our menswear but not our entire collection. Calcuttans can pick up kurtas, shirts, trousers and accessories like belts and shoes. We are not bringing suits at this stage. I always look forward to a new market and this is my first time in the city.

Ravi Bajaj designs three distinct ranges for men — sporty, neo-classical and an Italy-made gentleman’s line.

So who better than him to list some things that a man must have, whatever season, whichever time of the year. Here’s your checklist:

1. A good body

2. The right attitude

3. A dark suit

4. Black jeans

5. A white shirt

6. An eternal kurta pyjama

7. Black lace-up shoes

8. Tan loafers

9. A tan belt

10. A metal wrist watch

11. A great deo and a great cologne

PS: He is all for bending the rules. But there’s one condition: “No white socks outside the gym please!”

Shradha Agarwal
Do you think Calcutta is ready for designer menswear? Tell t2@abpmail.com