The old Bangali bari look of 85 Lansdowne had been touched up to create an ambience that would work for a wedding, a mujra or a qawwali. Marigold garlands were hung from the branches of a big tree near the entrance. Strains of sufi and qawwali music laced the air, and low divans with pillows were set out in the garden in the warm early-winter afternoon sun. The event on Thursday and Friday, a special preview, followed by the exhibition of Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s Bridal Sutra that was shown at Lakme Fashion Week, deserved all the special prep. For the clothes were special, and more.

There’s a lot happening in the designer’s creations. Panels of Kashmiri embroidery blend into plain silk, tussar or ikkat panels in lehngas and kurtas with a heavy zari, gota and mirror-work patti. The colours are rich and vibrant — reds, greens, blacks and mustards, among others. So are the fabrics — silks, velvets, heavy tussars and some georgettes. Even though there is a rich interplay of colours, textures, weaves and embellishments, the effect is breathtaking — opulent yet classy.

“Yes, I like to play with a little nostalgia in my outfits,” said the designer, who cut a striking contrast to his creations, dressed in casual denims and shirt. There are lehngas, long and short kurtas, kalidars, saris and more. He admitted that all the fusion work may go “horribly wrong”, but that wasn’t enough to stop him. “I love to blend things in my work. There’s no method, only madness, and it takes time to get the look right,” he laughed.

The collection, which can now be seen at 85 Lansdowne, includes pieces that were shown at the Lakme Fashion Week, and also designs inspired by them. “There is a collection of Western wear, a few more commercial designs and also a limited edition that are one-off pieces you won’t get anywhere else in India,” explained the designer. And for the first time, there’s something for the men too — sherwanis, kurtas and saafas, that come with detailed embroidery and are as grand as his offering for women.

Though he has won international acclaim, the Calcutta market remains important. “It is the home turf, and the home turf is always important,” smiled Sabyasachi.

And as always, the barir chhele gets a warm response. “They are so beautiful. I think Sabyasachi has excelled in this collection. The designs are signature Sabya, but more mature,” said Shalini Nopany, director and partner, 85 Lansdowne.

POULOMI BANERJEE