Kolkata’s ‘cake man from Piedmont’: Federico Peliti through the eyes of his great-granddaughter

Those who know the history of Calcutta, know Peliti’s, an Italian restaurant that once served the city’s high society. A sculptor-turned-confectioner from a small town near Turin in Piedmont, Italy, Federico Peliti arrived in India in 1869 as a caterer to Lord Mayo, the Viceroy of India. In 1872, the Viceroy was assassinated, after which the confectioner opened his first shop in Calcutta in partnership with Thomas O’Neil. Three years later, he ventured into his own business by acquiring larger premises at 18, Chowringhee Road. In 1881, he bought a location at 10-11 Esplanade East (now 11 Government Place East) to set up Peliti confectionery, which expanded into a sprawling Italian restaurant. Peliti soon gained popularity for organising extravagant banquets, and got the opportunity to prepare a dinner in honour of the Prince of Wales in 1891, in Burma. Back in his hometown of Carignano, he set up a factory that produced canned fruits and vegetables, and a distillery to produce vermut (vermouth) for the Royal House and for the Prince of Wales Edward VII.

The story of another famous heritage restaurant, Firpo’s, also began at Peliti’s. Angelo Firpo worked and gained experience at Peliti’s before opening his own restaurant.

Federico’s great-granddaughter, Maria Letizia Peliti, recently visited Kolkata for the first time, while tracing the incredible journey of the Italian restaurateur. Maria is also the producer of Federico Peliti’s Vermut. In a candid conversation with My Kolkata, she narrated the story of the man known often as Kolkata’s ‘Cake man from Piedmont’.

My Kolkata: You are on a mission to trace Federico Peliti’s trail in India. How has the experience been so far?

Maria Letizia Peliti: This is my third time in India and first time in Kolkata. I wanted to come to Kolkata because I want to retrace what Federico did here. I want to visit all the places he went to, and Kolkata is an important part of his history because he began his journey from here. I planned to visit in 2020, but then COVID happened.

Finally, I am here and I went to the building (LIC building on Government Place) where Peliti’s was. We climbed the stairs, entered the main hall, and went up on the terrace, from where we got a lovely view of the city. It was very emotional for me to climb those stairs where my great-grandfather used to work.

We know that he has a fascinating connection to Kolkata with Peliti’s, the restaurant. Can you tell us more about that?

My great-grandfather studied sculpture at the Accademia Albertina. But, due to financial difficulties, he participated in a confectionery competition in Turin, which he won. Turin, at that time, was known for its confectionery art, and Peliti, since he was a sculptor, was very good at decorating cakes. His cakes would look like statues. Lord Mayo, the viceroy, brought him to Calcutta as his confectioner. After the viceroy’s assassination, Peliti remained in India, started his own confectionery business, and eventually opened a successful restaurant. Not only the British, but the maharajas would also feast at his restaurant. He expanded his business to Shimla, creating the famous Regent House restaurant, which is mentioned in Rudyard Kipling’s short story, The Phantom Rickshaw. He also built the Grand Hotel and a villa, Villa Carignano, in Mashobra. Although the villa no longer exists, the area is still called Carignano, and the locals have hung on to the memory of Peliti’s achievements.

During my visit to India, I was touched by the warm welcome I received from the people in Shimla. It’s ironic that while Peliti is well-known in India, he remains unknown in Italy.

How much of Peliti’s history remains in Shimla?

During my visit to Shimla, I searched for Villa Carignano, but found instead a horticultural place where apples and fruits are grown. To my surprise, the staff welcomed me warmly, recognising my connection to Federico Peliti. They shared books and stories about his life and legacy, and even showed me remnants of the original villa, including the entrance pillars and staircase.

I was moved by the locals’ strong sense of memory and history. Everywhere I went, I found writings and murals telling the story of the Grand Hotel, including its tragic destruction by fire in 1922. It was heartwarming to see that my great-grandfather’s legacy surviving in Shimla.

Peliti’s was famous for neo-Gothic monument cakes. Is it true that an image of Queen Victoria was made with cake icing for the Queen’s jubilee celebrations?

Yes, we found it in the catalogues by Peliti’s. The catalogue is now in the Central Institute for Graphics in Rome — it was getting spoiled, so my father gave it to the centre for free. They are preserving it and also display it in exhibitions.

For those who may not be familiar, can you tell us about Peliti’s Vermut and how the business has evolved over the years?

In 1884, Peliti set up a factory in Carignano, which produced canned fruits and vegetables to supply to his hotel and restaurants. He also set up a distillery to produce his vermut for the Royal House and the Prince of Wales Edward VII.

My father kept all the documents related to his grandfather. Although my father never met Federico, who passed away in 1914, he was familiar with his story and had many artefacts to prove it. My father made a conscious effort to preserve all the material, including the formulas for Peliti’s vermouth recipes.

Vermouth, a type of liquor made with wine, spices, and sugar, has a unique formula for each variety. My father collected and safeguarded these formulas, which would later become crucial in reviving the family’s vermouth business.

In the 1970s, my brother Andy attempted to produce the vermouth again, but it wasn’t the right time in Italy, as vermouth had fallen out of fashion. Instead, people were drinking whisky and other spirits. My father understood the market and decided not to pursue the vermouth business further.

However, in recent years, there has been a resurgence in interest for vermouth, and it has become a popular aperitif. My son-in-law, who is in the liquor business, approached me with the idea of producing Peliti’s vermouth again, using the original formulas. I agreed, and that’s how the story of our vermouth began, about five or six years ago.

Can you explain the unique label of Peliti’s?

I think that he was quite an artist. The people on the logo [on top of the name] are two different identities of Peliti himself. It truly defines who he was. An Italian man born in Carignano, when he came to India, he loved the culture. So the man wearing a turban is him, his identity in India. He loved India so much that there are photos of him wearing the local attire. He was not an outsider. The locals loved him.

What makes Peliti’s Vermut unique?

Every vermouth has its own formula. The vermouth is produced by a local factory, and they are experts on the aperitif. They make our vermouth, but they don’t reveal our formula. My son-in-law looks after the business and I am an ambassador for the brand. I aim to tell the story of Peliti’s. It’s been six years since we started re-producing the vermouth. We will soon be available online. We are planning to find distributors here in India. Everything is in the talks.

Which Peliti’s vermouth is your favourite?

I like the blanc. You can have it plain or with ice, I prefer plain. Or you can have it in cocktails.