Designer Eshaani Jayaswal, known for her Indian ethnic clothes, launches her new label EJ by Eshaani Jayaswal. Focusing more on western silhouettes and a variety of fabrics, the launch collection is dedicated to her love for denim. The trendy summer wear makes it to the shelves of her store with her design innovation and an edgy, chic colour palette. While the play of colours and motifs are an extension of the design aesthetics of her eponymous label, the silhouette range comprises comfortable and smart wearables catering to diverse tastes and occasions, from casual workwear and a date evening to a party night. A t2 lookbook from the range and a chat with Eshaani:

What drew you to denim from being a label that specialises in Indian ethnic wear with an international influence?

My interest in denim started developing right from my degree course at NIFT, where I specialised in knitwear. During our foundation year, we had a module on denims and were taught by a teacher who used to handle the production at Arvind Mills, one of the biggest manufacturers of denim. While I was learning the different process of denim manufacturing, my uncle who owns a hosiery was dyeing denim for Calvin Klein around the same time. So, simultaneously I was learning in the institution and practically gaining knowledge on denims.

Then a lot of experimentation started on denim, which became a game changer — like lycra with denim. With it came styling changes also. It was a fabric originally used by mine workers for its durability and later got incorporated into people’s daily life. I have personally always enjoyed wearing denim, particularly for my airport look as it helps me to stay warm in the flight.

What was your thought behind creating this collection?

I went sourcing recently and picked up some denim to create a few outfits casually and made some friends wear it. Different people gave me their opinion on it and it was important for me to have that feedback, which we often miss out on. Then I created this collection under my new label EJ by Eshaani Jayaswal as I was looking forward to creating a niche. We want people to not mix it up with the Indian ethnic silhouettes we do. We are known for our pastel story and edgy ethnics. This will be an extension of our core design aesthetic but at a different pricing scale from our couture, so that everyone can own an Eshaani Jayaswal.

The collection looks very chic and has an interesting colour story despite being denim…

We have twisted and created the collection with colour blocking techniques and applique. The feel is European, similar to our ethnics. The colours range from ochre yellow to green and grey. Colour is something that one first notices and it comes very easy to me. So, I played around with the colour story, which is inspired by the concept of Tokyo chic, which is bold, playful and elegant statement wear. It is an earthy palette against the neon lights on the streets of Tokyo. We have used different silhouettes, like waistcoats, jumpsuits, skirts. We have used nature motifs throughout the collection, from floral applique to enlarged bird motifs, with a variety of texturing and detailing.

Denim is now trans-seasonal and is trending as a summer favourite too. How summer-friendly is the collection?

It is completely summer-friendly as it is made of cotton-based lycra. It is soft, durable and light-weight. It sits soft on the skin. Denim as a product is growing. People are looking forward to experiment with it. Earlier, people used to just spend on their wedding outfits or ethnic outfits. But now, with everyone wanting to look good on a daily basis, looking for comfort and being conscious of what they are wearing, they are spending on western casual and formal clothing as well. We will soon launch formal wear in denim.

You wanted to do the shoot with pastry chefs as your models to showcase the collection…

As a couture brand, we do a lot of customisation. With this new label, we wanted to put across the idea that we make clothes for all. Whenever I customise for someone, I always ask them what their profession is because I feel our profession reflects on our clothing. As pastry chefs, their profession requires them to spend time in the kitchen for a long time to achieve their desired perfection. They usually don’t like to dress up at the end of a tiring day. I wanted to show them how dressing up can be fun yet simple. People have many preconceived ideas of what looks good on what figure. We tried to debunk that concept with a play of colour blocking, contrast and design placement. So, I wanted to shoot with people who resemble my real clientele instead of professional models that people sometimes find hard to relate to.